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1985(86) XJ700 Caliper Rebuild

Discussion in 'XJ DIY How-To Instructions' started by Nuch, Jan 30, 2018.

  1. Nuch

    Nuch Well-Known Member

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    Post Carb Clinic Additions… The final assembly was done under Hogfiddle’s watchful eye.
    I figure I should keep all of this together as this is the final piece of front brake rebuild for the XJ700n system. Like the front calipers, I purchased a used MC from eBay for the rebuild. Here you have the replacement unit with it’s guts out. There was a dry rotted dust boot and a circlip that you’ll have to muscle out… more on what that looks like (on the re install) down the thread. Nice and crusty!
    image01.png



    After removal of the insides, I did my best to really buff the bore as much as possible, picked out the majority of the fluid level viewing window, taped up the openings and bead blasted it in a cabinet.
    image02.png



    After the blasting, I got in there and picked out the remainder of the window. The yellowish clear ring was the window edge, then there was the metal plate with the slots and the o-ring that holds it all together. You have to clean the groove really well before install of the new window. Good time to do it now… use acetone.. there was “gummy” bits and window residue in there…
    image03.png



    Next another wipe down with acetone… I think it’s always a good idea to use gloves. What is the sense in having your skin come in contact with chemicals anyway? Besides, the gloves keep you from transferring your oils back on to your prepped MC just prior to paint.
    image04.png



    After Paint! The screws look bad… but we get new ones anyway!
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    Now for the good stuff… A complete MC rebuild kit from Len @ XJ4Ever! Get one. You won’t regret it.
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    You’ll have to cut down the tip of the applicator on the RTV tube. I nipped off the very tippy end of it first.
    image07.png


    Then I whittled it down to a point. You want the thinnest “squeeze” of RTV possible. You’re about to attempt something difficult!
    image08.png

    You’ll want to set yourself for as much accuracy as possible. That sight window groove is small. The RTV is sticky and hard to work with. You’re also working with a tiny circle glass window. You want to do your best to get it right the first time. If you get the RTV where it shouldn’t be… You’ll have to clean things up and start over. You want to keep your glass clear… and you just painted that shiny new MC… remember?



    Now put the RTV in… Not too much… but not too little either. That bead of RTV has an important job to do.
    image09.png



    Once you put your RTV in, make sure your fingers are clean of any RTV (or perspiration, anxiety, cheese doodle dust, etc.) and send that window home.
    image10.png



    After the glass was set, I put a second application of RTV on the outside. It’s REALLY hard to get that stuff smooth when you’re working in such a small area and in such small quantities. It’s a bit “lumpy” for my liking, but it is strong. Once done… Leave it a day or so to really set up permanently.
    image11.png



    Now for the guts…
    Take your new spring and plunger gasket… assemble and slather on some of the included assembly grease.
    image12.png



    Slide it into the bore. Set it in good.
    image13.png
    image14.png



    Your piston will go in on top of that. Don't forget to grease that too.
    image15.png
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2018
  2. Nuch

    Nuch Well-Known Member

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    Now here’s the fun part…. Best case scenario, You should use a tool like this to set your cir clip.
    image16.png

    Unfortunately, I only had one of those $2 Multi tipped, Harbor Freight specials. Not only is it bad quality… Neither the straight nor the 90 degree tip will reach all the way into the bore necessary to set that clip. That is unless you modify! I had to grind down the straight tip back to the set pins to get more reachable length. Even then it was a while of muscling the clip into place to the point of ALMOST giving up and thinking about ordering the right tool for the job. Then… it happened… Snap! I couldn’t believe it. It went in! The next MC i rebuild will include the tool with the new parts in the order.
    image17.png


    Now sneak your dust boot on. Len’s full rebuild kit also comes with new screws for the top as well as the diaphragm for beneath your cover.
    image18.png

    image19.png


    Fast forward to the carb clinic and install… Let’s remember why we’re here… The old rusty, crusty MC that believe it or not was still in service. The PO actually did put on stainless steel lines but the connections were getting rusty, they were not coated and they were definitely not the correct length.
    image20.png

    image21.png

    And yes, that SAE bolt was going through the MC to hold the cover on.
    image22.png


    So… Out with the old…
    image23.png


    And in with the new… Including Len”s stainless steel braided brake lines.
    image24.png
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    Remember those rebuilt calipers from the beginning of the thread? Here’s one…
    image27.png


    More Assembly… Before…
    image28a.png


    Getting there…
    image28b.png



    Beautiful fit…
    image29.png
     
  3. Nuch

    Nuch Well-Known Member

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    Then of course, once you put it all together, you have to fill and bleed the system. I feel like I’ve read 1001 horror stores about this taking days. Truth be told, once everything was assembled and fluid was put in, Saftie and I as well as some of the others spent a fair amount of time taking turns pumping the handle, holding, releasing at the bleeder valve, etc… Here and there a small bubble would emerge but at that pace, it was clearly going to take weeks to get a firm brake handle.

    Then...

    In steps Dave…
    image30.png
    He began doing something that I like to refer to as “The Hogfiddle Jiggle.” Ever so small agitations of the lever (like tiny, tiny squeezes). Man you had to see the bubbles rise from the weep hole in the bottom of the MC. I’m not joking, it took less than 5 minutes to get a firm lever. Amazing.


    Job done now. My new brakes did the carb clinic group ride as well as the run north in Lake George that weekend. Since home, no hiccups what so ever other than an annoying squeak which I’m hoping will dissipate at some point.
    image31.png

    Much thanks to everyone who helped out including Saftie and The Crazy Gnat and of course Dave once again for his care and know-how and hosting the annual CNYCC each year.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2018
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  4. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Excellent!
     
  5. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Awesome write-up, Nuch!
     
  6. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    You have earned a sticky.
     
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  7. Nuch

    Nuch Well-Known Member

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    Glad you liked it!
    Thank you!
    image32.png
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2018
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  8. lostboy

    lostboy Well-Known Member

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    Awesome pictures. It was like I was there .
     
  9. Nuch

    Nuch Well-Known Member

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    It really was (and always is... 3 years running so far for me) a great time. I'm already looking forward to next year. Having a bunch of XJ'rs together for a day is really great. I make a "Me Weekend" out of it. Too bad it's only once a year!
     
  10. edmaximx

    edmaximx New Member

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    I realize the last post on this thread is almost a year old. But I just picked up, about two months ago, an '86 Maxim X and will be rebuilding the calipers and MC this winter. My question relates to the spring plates that help hold the pads in place: I just put new pads in my bike and did not pay attention to the positioning of those brass colored plates. Does it matter which way they are installed as they seem to function the same either way? Thanks in advance for the advice:)
     
  11. Nuch

    Nuch Well-Known Member

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    Yes, they seem to have a longer tab/shorter tab thing going on in there... Either way is ok...
     
  12. edmaximx

    edmaximx New Member

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    Perfect and thank you for the quick response! I used to sell bikes many moons ago and had an '85 Maxim X that I bought new. Unfortunately, I sold it and the rest is history, lol. I look forward to restoring the X I have now and appreciate immensely the wealth of info on this forum. Your post about the rebuild is phenomenal and will assist me this winter:) Have a great day!!
     
  13. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    The parts fiche diagram should be helpful.

    front-brake-caliper
     
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  14. edmaximx

    edmaximx New Member

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    Thank you! It's hard to tell for me from the parts fiche pics. My 55 year old eyes, lolo_O
     
  15. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    If you mouse over the picture you can zoom in as close as you'd like.
     
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  16. edmaximx

    edmaximx New Member

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    Got it, thanks again!
     
  17. chazmati

    chazmati Member

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    Thanks Nuch. Great write-up. I'll add a photo for people like me who were stumped at getting the plastic cover off the back of the caliper - push the sides together and there are two tabs on either side that will release. [​IMG]
     
  18. chazmati

    chazmati Member

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    Regarding bolting the caliper halves together (do they bottom out, is there a torque spec, etc.)

    So on that note... I think the shop manual suggests 22 ft-lb for a generic 14mm bolt (10 mm thread). I will tell you that 40-45 ft-lb is where one of my bolts started to strip... I had that sinking feeling where it's suddenly getting easier to turn vs. requiring increasing force. Arrgh.
     
  19. Nuch

    Nuch Well-Known Member

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    Oh No! The fluid transfer seals helped me to determine how much torque to apply. Once I couldn't see them anymore between the halves, I went "really good and tight" and stopped there.
     
  20. Maxim-X

    Maxim-X Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    That is the worst feeling ever. You feel like it's just about there and it starts to feel lighter!
     

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