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Clutch Adjustment & Clutch Cable Replacement Procedure

Discussion in 'XJ DIY How-To Instructions' started by RickCoMatic, Nov 23, 2006.

  1. yamaman

    yamaman Member

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    Agreed, and I actually said I wanted to use Motor Oil :lol: but how the hell do I get it in there?! I used a Cable Luber Tool that accepted the straw of the aresol can
     
  2. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    You undo the Cable from the Lever.
    Elevate as high as possible.
    Pass Cable end through neck of small funnel.
    Duct Tape the Funnel Nect to the Cable ... Oil tight.
    Keep the Cable and Funnel elevated.
    Fill the Funnel with enough Oil to submerge the Cable end.
    Let Gravity go to work.

    As the Oil seeps into the Cable it find its way to the other end.
    Where you need to put paper towels.
    A bunch.
    Until you drain the Funnel and stop the flow.

    It can get messy but its very effective.
     
  3. OnTheStorm

    OnTheStorm Member

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    Started from square . Still couldn't move the lever...by hand. Reread this thread and saw something about my hand not having the mechanical advantage. I knew the rods were locked in right because i heard them click in, I could also move the throw out arm when I replaced the cover with the arm 180 degrees opposite of where it should be.
    I Used a pair of vice grips to spin the throw out arm and got the cable back in its nook. Clutch feels more or less the way it used to, just a smidge tighter. Will do fine tuning in the morning.
     
  4. todd

    todd Member

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    Don't forget you can remove the c-clip from the clutch attachment and move it over a couple of splines until the tention is close enough to adjust from the clutch handle.
     
  5. andrewlong

    andrewlong Member

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    And I was thinking to myself today 'man do I need to adjust my clutch!'...lo and behold here is this discussion. Thanks Rick!

    I had to basically let out the handle all the way before the clutch would catch, now it works just like it should.
     
  6. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    If the bike is on the sidestand you won't see any oil.

    Put it on the centerstand (or hold it vertical for 5 minutes if you don't have a centerstand) then check.
     
  7. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    If ... :
    You clunk shifting from Neutral into first.
    Have the Bike "Pulling" on you when the Lever is pulled, ... the famous "Red Light Creep".
    Have to fight with the Bike to get it into Neutral.
    Can't get into Neutral to move the Bike.

    Take 45-Minutes and do a Complete Clutch adjustment.

    You will be happy you did.
     
  8. streetbrawler750

    streetbrawler750 Member

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    Perhaps an obvious question, but if the clutch is adjusted properly but starts slipping around 6500+, is it time for a new clutch?
     
  9. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    When you know the Clutch ISN'T Tight. And, it starts slipping "Under Load" ... You have probably used-up all the fun that that Clutch had to deliver.

    Don't let it slip.

    Don't "Burn-up" the Steel Driven Plates.
    You might be able to replace just the FRICTION Plates.

    But, if you Scorch or Blue-burn the DRIVERS you can't leave them in there. You'll have a Clutch that GRABS or doesn't take-up smoothly because the DRIVERS are Burned, Warped or worse.

    Be honest with the job.
    Replace any blued DRIVEN Plates when you replace all the FRICTION Plates and all the Fun and Performance will return.
     
  10. superluckycat

    superluckycat Member

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    New clutch cable and adjust per Rick's guide done this past weekend. Can't believe I didn't do it sooner. Easy as pie.
     
  11. streetbrawler750

    streetbrawler750 Member

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    Thanks Rick, it started slipping under heavy load on the way back from a little cruise a couple weeks ago and I have been busy so I looked into the adjustment again and rode it once and still slipped under heavy load. I really don't think I burned anything up if it is I will replace it though.
     
  12. streetbrawler750

    streetbrawler750 Member

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    Got the new clutch in and took it out for some dialing in... got it feeling pretty good so I thought I would test it out, holy man I brought the front wheel off the ground taking off, not real high but still, WOW a new clutch is sweet
     
  13. OnTheStorm

    OnTheStorm Member

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    So this is my 2nd time screwing w/ the clutch. I just put in all new plates and am now toying with cable. I can not get it to not clunk. There is no slack in the rod. I have tried placing the throw arm in multiple locations, finally found one where i can get the full range of motion and it still clunks. I used a small pair of vice grips to confirm that this rod will not go any farther. I have tightened up the cable to where it might even be to tight...clunk. gave it slack...clunk. Went back to the step by step a few times...clunk...?
     
  14. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I answered your other thread.

    What "clunk" are you referring to? When dropping into first from neutral?

    It WILL clunk dropping into first from neutral, even warmed up. COLD it will clunk rather vigorously; once warmed up it is a lot less violent but it will still clunk. It's the nature of the beast; probably a bit more so on the 550s because of the chain-driven primary.
     
  15. OnTheStorm

    OnTheStorm Member

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    Hey thanks, saw your other post. Actually thought i deleted this one, i ran into something else you wrote on another thread and it answered my question. It clunks from neutral to first when i first start out...never when riding. I guess that's just how it goes, although it still makes me cringe a bit.

    Other gears are fine, little click into 2nd (down and up). Judging by your other post, i need to give my self a bit more free play. Thanks for all the help navigating me through my clutch process.
     
  16. carbonxe

    carbonxe Member

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    I just followed this step by step today and I'm not 100% sure if I did everything correctly. I replaced my cable with a brand new one, lubed it up, routed it the same way, taped it into the knurl and adjusted at the bottom. I got the cable down to the point where there is absolutely zero play in the lever, however the clutch lever feels VERY light and the 'recoil' isn't as strong in the lever. When I pull the clutch lever in and let go, it takes a bit for it to go back out. Anyone have an idea as to where I could have gone wrong here?
     
  17. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Post a pic of where you have the THROW-OUT ARM attached to the Splines on the ACTIVATING ROD.

    You need to Rotate the Activating Rod Clockwise removing all the Free Play out from it before attaching the Throw-Out Arm.

    You want the ANGLE of the THROW OUT ARM to be back enough so the Cable MOVES the ARM as far as possible whenn the Lever is pulled.

    You want the Lever adjusted so that when you begin to Squeeze the Pressure Plate begins to move.

    Rotate the Rod extending into the Clutch Case until the Free Play is gone.
    Hole it in that position with a Shoe lace wound around the shaft and pulled like starting a small engine.

    Hold the Rod tight.
    Put-on the Arm angled toward the back of the bike.
    Get enough angle so that the Arm moves through the whole PULL of the Cable.
     
  18. carbonxe

    carbonxe Member

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    That's the part I missed. I pulled the throw out lever off the splined shaft, turned it and put it back on and then pulled the lever. The first half of the pull felt the same, then it started to actually grab the clutch. From there, I just adjusted it and got it to where it felt like there was zero lash. It's at the point where I can't even touch the lever without starting to engage the clutch, which is probably too tight, but I can fine tune that later on. Big thanks for the write-up and the help!
     
  19. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Once you get it right, ... keep it tight.

    If your Clutch is adjusted to have Zero Lash:

    First Gear "Clunk" is greatly reduced.
    Neutral Fight is eliminated.
    Red Light Creep, ... Gone!

    Use the Perch Adjustment Knurl to Fine-tune it to be Tight without causing Slip.
    That's where you want to be.
     
  20. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Absolutely zero lash can have the clutch starting to release when you turn the handlebars; and will quickly burn up the pull-rod bearing.

    You need 1mm-3mm play at the lever (factory spec,) which isn't much; but it keeps there from being a constant load on the throwout mechanism.
     

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