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Doing the 750 Seca's Forks.. (Rebuild.. now a HOW TO!)

Discussion in 'XJ DIY How-To Instructions' started by Chorca, Jun 11, 2009.

  1. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    We have the correct seal for your bike in stock, have sold hundreds of them, never had a leak reported.

    Again, look at the little "teeth" or lips on the inside diameter........those lips should point "down" when installed in the correct orientation, so they can "scrape" the oil off of the inner tube as it moves up and out of the lower tube.
     
    Tim morris likes this.
  2. Carvall

    Carvall Member

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    OK I'm back with bad news. I spened half of the day replacing the selas again and guess what? they leak again. The only good think is that I took a long ride to get rid of the frustration. Any way I think I will buy the new selas form chacal.
     
  3. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Active Member

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  4. Raven

    Raven Member

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    Once this valve is back on the fork, where to you locate/orient it before adding air pressure? (the 0-17psi) Pics?
     
  5. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Active Member

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    The Top of the Fork Tune will be flush with the Top of the Steering Brace.
    The Wive Clip will position the Pneumatic Collar from being misplaced.
    The Wire Clip goes on first' The Air Collar comes to rest on the Wire Clip.
    Lube the Top of the Fork Tube with Fork Oil or Brake Fluid.
    Lube the Rubber Air Seals within the Collar.
    Slide the Collar onto the Fork and the Air Hole in the Fork Tube will be centered between the Rubber Seals.
     
  6. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    There's actually supposed to be a hard rubber "spacer ring" above the air collar (on all models that use the air collars) that fits between the top of the air collar and the bottom of the upper steering bracket....it acts as a "spacer" and as a shock absorber for the air collar.........
     
  7. Raven

    Raven Member

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    ^I do have this spacer, so I guess I'm in the clear :)

    Thanks for the description Rick, and that is where I reinstalled it. I'm assuming orientation of the collar itself doesn't matter.

    I guess I don't see how it adjusts the pressure inside the fork here...is there a pin-sized hole that it covers in that position that I didn't see, that lets the pressure get into the fork tube?
     
  8. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Correct!
     
  9. skills4lou

    skills4lou Member

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    Um....shouldn't this read "fits between the top of the air collar and the bottom of the UPPER steering bracket" ? That's how mine is anyway.
     
  10. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Skills, you are so right, you are today's Grand Prize Winner! :D
     
  11. skills4lou

    skills4lou Member

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    Yay! Now, does that come with my next order will it be a separate shipment?

    ;)
     
  12. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Ah crap. Doing these seals again because my tubes were too pitted and ruined my new seals. Also to replace the springs. I've almost gotten one done, but I can't get the dampening rod bolt to tighten. It's just spinning, and these are the 750 seca forks that don't have the fluting for the dampening rod hold down tool. Any ideas on how I can tighten this down or did I miss something? Can I final tighten the bolt when everything is reassembled on the bike, forks loaded down?
     
  13. skills4lou

    skills4lou Member

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    Nope, gotta tighten the correct way: remove the anti-dive assembly, and take a look in the bottom hole. You need to ensure that the middle hole of the three holes on the bottom of the valve (inside the fork) is lined up with the bottom hole for the AD. Use a round punch or equivalent to hold the valve in place while tightening the bolt. IIRC, it only needs maybe 10 ft-lbs.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    well my problem seems to be that I can hold the lower part of the oil control valve assembly with an allen wrench as you describe, but I can see the actual damper rod turning. And I have the parts assembled in the same order you do skillz.
     
  15. skills4lou

    skills4lou Member

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    Ok, put the spring etc in and install the cap. the spring will hold the damper rod. Then you can just pull the cap and finish up anything else you need to do.
    You could also just wait until it's on the bike, but you have to tighten the bolt before putting the oil in or it'll leak right out the bottom.
     
  16. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    haha..that's great...I'll have to do the hardest part of a 750 seca fork rebuild (getting the circlip out of the top) 3 times for the right fork (1 for the fork to repair, 1 for the donor tube, and now one to refill)...and I still have to do the left! Thought this would be easier the second time around :roll:
     
  17. skills4lou

    skills4lou Member

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    wrap the tube in a rag and clamp it in your vice. Use a wooden dowel to push down on the cap (under my chin is how I did it). Then you have both hands free, use a mechanics pick to pluck the circlip out. 15 seconds tops.
     
  18. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    haha awesome...never thought to use my chin! Actually, it was a lot easier when I had a vice, but I moved recently to a rented place, so now I really need the third hand or fourth, hand. But at least someone is around for the next couple of days to help me out
     
  19. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Alright, so I got this done. I'm not sure why the allen bolt going into the damper rod wouldn't tighten without help on one of my forks, but could with the other, but my procedure was as follows (two man job, but I'm sure a talented mechanic can do it while making a sandwich for lunch and posting on this forum):
    1. try to tighten bolt as instructed in this thread
    2. it doesn't work, so keep trying the same thing and cursing for hours
    3. put the spring in and the cap.
    4. turn fork assembly upside down and put a socket extension in the axle hole.
    5. put all your weight on the fork as a buddy tightens the bolt to the appropriate torque.
    6. take the cap and spring out, and continue as described in this thread.

    Again, I don't know why my damper rod wouldn't hold itself in place in only one fork. And it will probably take you a couple of days less time without all the cursing/trying the same thing :roll: . And me and buddy got really good at taking off that cap.
     
  20. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Doesn't the hole in the oil lock valve unit go "all the way through", so that the allen wrench actually goes through the oil hole in the damper rod......in other words, when the center (?) hole in the oil lock valve is aligned with the hole in the damper rod, then the allen wrench actually holds the damper rod........and that's what allows you to tighten the damper rod screw.........
     

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