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HOW TO: Change your fork seals

Discussion in 'XJ DIY How-To Instructions' started by Gamuru, Mar 9, 2008.

  1. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Gamuru does a fantastic job of these "how-to's".

    Regarding bearing/bushings/slides----all the fork tubes have them, some models use one on the bottom of each inner (chrome) tube, and all models use one on the top of each outer (lower) tube/housing (near the top, below the oil seal).

    Unfortunately, except for a few specific models, they aren't available.....
     
  2. 00airman

    00airman New Member

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    How would one make the holder tool, upside down spark plug socket? is there something in the tube that fits a 3/8" drive 1/2"? If someone could please explain this tool that would be awesome. I alredy have my forks off and springs removed but cant get that allen bolt completely loose.
     
  3. Hillsy

    Hillsy Member

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    Try putting your springs back in. It will tension the damper rod and should allow you to remove the damper bolt.
     
  4. Gamuru

    Gamuru Guest

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    See this post on how to make the tool.
     
  5. 00airman

    00airman New Member

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    Thanks for the help, i got it apart, i understand the inverted socket now. I ended up putting an impact gun on a 3/8 drive allen, Definately worked but now i know how to make the tool and i can use it on the other fork. Thanks again
     
  6. mestnii

    mestnii Member

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    Gamuru - thanks for the excellent write up! I used your step-by-step instructions as well as my manual to do the job on my 85 xj700n. I must say, rebuilding the seals on my 700 was a lot simpler and even more straightforward than on your steed!

    It really helped to have your instructions by my side as my manual is at times too straightforward and skips several details.

    If anyone needs advice or help doing this on their xj 700n, let me know. I can even take pictures if you need.
     
  7. goser

    goser Member

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    Thought I'd pass this tip along after almost stripping out one of my damper rod retaining bolts, for anyone else who may be doing this alone in a less than suitable workspace...

    Holding the fork upright, I set it on top of my 8mm socket and inserted a long drift through the axle hole. By standing on the ratchet handle, and locking the drift between my ankles, I was able to push down on the damper rod retaining tool while turning it, thus breaking it free with a minimum of stress on the bolt head.

    For my 650 maxim I couldn't find a spark plug socket that would work in reverse, but a 1/2" threaded rod with two nuts on either end fit perfectly.
     
  8. bumpinugs

    bumpinugs New Member

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    I made it to the part with the allen wrench and am having some troubles. The inverted spark plug socket works and holds the inside (if I don't hold the "special tool" it will spin freely), but the bolt just won't come out. I see no progress and can't remove it. Could something be stripped? or am I missing something?
     
  9. vincentmoy

    vincentmoy Member

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    Sorry to pull up old post. But do you use those fork seal bullet to install the fork seal? Thanks
     
  10. Gamuru

    Gamuru Guest

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    Not really sure what that is.
     
  11. vincentmoy

    vincentmoy Member

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    Something like this

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Gamuru

    Gamuru Guest

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    Dunno. Never seen one before.
     
  13. sausage-fingers

    sausage-fingers Member

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    Is this procedure the same as on the XJ550?

    Mine are very weak so I need to re-oil. What oil do you use, and what quantity in each damper?

    thanks
     
  14. plansea

    plansea Member

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    Hi, Don
    I just did my 82 650 Seca front fork oil and dust seals using your instructions and everything went fine. I didn't have to remove my handlebars but everything else was the same. I put on a new front tire and new fork seals and I am now ready for some serious fall riding. I can not believe how much dirt and sludge was in the bottom of my forks and how dirty the oil was. The last bit of oil out was just like valve grinding compound. I was tempted not to disassemble the forks completely but I am glad I took the time to do it right.The new seals wouldn't have lasted long with all that dirt.
    I also took advantage of the rainy day to replace the exhaust gaskets to cure some annoying exhaust leak noise.
    Your clear instructions make me a bit less worried to work on my bike
    Thanks!
     
  15. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Don, sorry to disagree, but that is entirely the wrong way to go about it, put the rebound spring on the damper rod, slide d.r. down inner tube & fix off, then fit the seals, sliding them over the lubricated chrome inner tube.
    (ducks behind rock)
     
  16. FastMaxim82

    FastMaxim82 Member

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    the instructions are very close for the 550. i did not have to pull the handle bars at all on mine. as for the holding tool, i used a craftsmen 5/8" sparkplug socket inverted with the rubber removed. the craftsmen is not machined on the inside like some of the others which would not allow the extension to be installed backwards ie my snap-on has a collar on the inside. pm chacal for fork oil (good price) i can't remember the amounts off hand, i'll check later and repost.
     
  17. plansea

    plansea Member

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    For Canadians here is the list of Canadian Tire parts I used to make the dampening rod holding tool

    [​IMG]

    The rod is long enough to be cut in half and the parts are packaged to give you enough material to make two tools.
     
  18. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I gotta go with Wiz on this one. This method ensures the seal "lips" are pointed in the right direction when you're done. Trying to insert the inner tube into the leg with the new seals in it risks getting a lip turned under.
     
  19. plansea

    plansea Member

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    Hi, Wizard and Bigfitz52
    Our shop foreman at work watched me changing my seals and expressed the same concern about installing the inner tube after installing the seal and the fact I was not using a seal installation tool to make sure the seal lips didn't get turned or damaged. I found a hydraulic fitting that was the perfect size to press the new seal in straight in the bore but I could not leave my inner tubes on and use them as a guide because I have some small rust spots up near the handlebar end from years of riding in the rain and leaving the bike out in the rain forest here.
    The foreman offered to machine up a seal installation tool for me but I was too impatient to get riding again. I hope I won't have early seal failure now and have to get that tool made up after all and suffer from "I told you so" :)
    Seals were Yamaha part number 4ES-23145-00 and were made by NGK part number BR4712E
     
  20. maxhog650

    maxhog650 Member

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    Hey all, I know this is a pretty old post but im finnaly getting around to my fork seals and ive hit a dead end. i picked up some red oil seals from chacal, thanks. and some new dust seals but i cant seem to get them both to fit. there is a metal lib sitting in the way and i cant bend the oil seal around it. I dont think this is the circlip because i know what that looks like and removed it. heres a pic........... what do i do, is this thing removable
     

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