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How to Disassemble the 1982 XJ1100 / Maxim Rear Master Cyclinder

Discussion in 'XJ DIY How-To Instructions' started by asg, Nov 25, 2016.

  1. asg

    asg New Member

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    First off, working on brakes is dangerous. This breakdown is provided for information only: I will assume no liability for anything you do to your brakes.

    Disclaimer aside, here is how I took apart my 1982 XJ1100 rear master cylinder for a rebuild. I'm hoping that this might help someone who couldn't find any info on how to tear down this somewhat rare front-left & rear brake master cylinder. This is probably child's play to some of you guys, but for me, it was my first motorcycle MC rebuild. Please add to this as necessary because I'm sure many of you have far more experience than I do with brakes!

    1.) Remove the rear master cylinder. Bleed out your brakes, so there isn't any fluid left in the rear master cylinder. Put an oil pan under your motorcycle to catch the residual fluid from your rear master cylinder. The master cylninder has two mounting bolts on the right side of the frame I think they are 12mm bolts, if memory serves me correctly. It also has two brake lines connected to a junction/proportioning unit (one for the rear brake, and one for the front left brake). The banjo bolts for each of these can be removed with a 12mm wrench...don't lose the copper washers on either side of the brake line connections. After removing the brake lines, remove the two mounting bolts. Two wires attached to the master cylinder run up the right side of your motorcycle. Disconnect these, noting where each was disconnected. At the bottom, the piston plunger can be removed by pulling out the retaining pin You will probably have to remove the plastic rear-wheel mud-guard to move the master cylinder free of the motorcycle.

    2.) Remove the cap & diaphram: Three 8mm bolts can be removed from the reservoir cap, and the rubber diaphragm & metal retainer will pop out. You might need to pry carefully if it's old and gummed up.

    3.) Remove the sensor float: There's a white (styrofoam-looking) sensor float/switch that is housed inside the reservoir. It has a circlip holding it in place on a black post. The circlip can be gently removed with pliers and the float pulled off of the post. The post is actually the sensor, and the float switches it on when the fluid is low. You will see the two wires attached on the bottom of the master cylinder.

    4.) Remove the plunger rod boot over the piston bore: This little boot can be pulled off easily with your fingers.

    5.) Remove the internal snap-ring: Using snap-ring pliers, remove the internal snap-ring, which prevents the piston from falling out.

    6.) Remove the piston: Under the snap-ring, you will find the piston and attached "pacman clip" of C-shaped piston retainer. Depress the piston with your finger, and manipulate the "pacman clip" such that the piston can be removed ( I used a dental pick, but a micro-flat head screwdriver works too). Then pull the piston out.

    At this point, you've removed everything except for the switch from the master-cylinder body. If you want, you can remove this by pulling the circlip from the bottom of the master-cylinder and pressing it out. Mine was in there pretty good, so I decided to just leave it and clean around it.

    Chacal has parts available for the rebuild, which are otherwise very tough to source. I'm gonna clean this MC up and determine which parts I need to order.

    I hope this helps someone out...
     

    Attached Files:

    k-moe likes this.
  2. quebecois59

    quebecois59 Well-Known Member

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    Quite different from the one on my 1983 Seca900.
     
  3. T maxim rider Y

    T maxim rider Y New Member

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    I just had the master cylinder of my 83 1100 I had to remove the inner plastic fender not sure if it was necessary but a few 10 mm and flat screwdriver made it much more accessible
     

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