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XJ PARTS CATALOG, SECTION J: BRAKES

Discussion in 'XJ4Ever - Supporting Vendor' started by chacal, Oct 11, 2013.

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  1. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    SECTION J:

    BRAKES:

    --Brake System Tools:


    BRAKE SYSTEM TOOLS:

    NOTE: SOME OF THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FOR RENTAL!!: some tools are a one-time or infrequent use tool, so it may be more economical for you to rent them from us, rather than to purchase outright. Please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at:

    http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630

    and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.


    Master Cylinder Tools:

    bp1) Master Cylinder DEEP-REACH CIRCLIP PLIERS----these special extra-deep 90-degree angled circlip pliers allow you to easily remove and install the circlip (or "c'-clip) that hides way down inside the top of the plunger bore (below the rubber boot). Without a DEEP set of circlip pliers, you're going to fight and struggle with this part of your master cylinder rebuild project. Regular store-bought circlip pliers may have a 90-degree attachment, but unless they are extra-deep like these, they still won't be able to reach that circlip.

    HCP1597 Aftermarket master cylinder CIRCLIP PLIERS, each:
    $ 37.95



    HCP2396 THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For use on all XJ-series (except XJ750 Seca and XJ750 Euro models with cable-operated master cylinder) and 1981 XS1100 Midnight Special front master cylinder cover hold-down screws.
    $ 9.95

    HCP2397 THREAD CHASER AND CLEAN-UP TAP, made from a high-speed titanium nitride coated steel. For use on all XS1100 front master cylinder cover hold-down screws (except 1981 XS1100 Midnight Special models).
    $ 9.95



    HCP28170 Aftermarket thread tap or EZ-out extractor TAP HANDLE, featuring offset tap handles and fully adjustable head for all m3-m12 size taps and size 0 to ½” extractors. This is the proper way to hold a tap or extractor to insure that the force is directed straight down and doesn’t “wobble” as you are cutting, reaming, or extracting. Much better than using pliers or vise-grips to hold the tool……..
    $ 17.95


    NOTE: always use a proper thread-cutting oil or lubricant before using thread taps! Thin motor oils work fine when merely doing a "clean-up" thread chase; a real cutting fluid should be obtained if a threaded bore needs to be truly cut:

    NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.

    HCP2402 Aftermarket machinist-grade professional THREAD CUTTING FLUID, for use when cutting into aluminum or other soft metal. 4-ounce non-aerosol can.
    $ 8.95

    HCP2403 Aftermarket machinist-grade professional THREAD CUTTING FLUID, for use when cutting into steel or other ferrous metals. 4-ounce non-aerosol can.
    $ 8.95



    bp17) Master Cylinder pressure-relief port CLEAN-OUT WIRE PROBE TOOL.

    HCP12929 Aftermarket master cylinder pressure-relief port CLEAN OUT WIRE PROBE TOOL, hand-held port probe tool has the proper size wire needed to punch this hole clean, allowing you to either push through or twist the wire to act as a "drill bit". For all XJ-series master cylinders.
    $ 12.95

    HCP11177-12" Aftermarket master cylinder pressure-relief port CLEAN OUT WIRE, 1-foot length of the proper size wire (wire only, no holder included) needed to punch this hole clean. For all XJ-series master cylinders.
    $ 4.95


    HCP2296 Aftermarket master cylinder pressure-relief port CLEAN OUT DRILL BIT, hand-held port probe drill bit is the proper size to punch this hole clean, allowing you to either push through or twist the bit by hand (it is too small to fit into a standard drill chuck, so it must be used by hand or in a pin-vise). For all XJ-series master cylinders.
    $ 12.95



    bp21) Brake caliper or master cylinder PISTON POPPER. When brake caliper pistons or master cylinder plungers get seized up due to moisture in the brake fluid, they become next to impossible to remove......and no amount of air pressure is going to un-stick a fully frozen piston. For those situations, we have a simple solution: an easy-to-use, threaded brake "union bolt" with a standard grease-gun zerk fitting built in. Just replace the union bolt on your caliper with this bolt, hook up your hand-held grease gun, and a few minutes later that formerly stuck piston or plunger is in your hands! Even the smallest hand-held grease guns can generate over 3,000 psi, far more than the 150 psi you can hope to get out of an air compressor. Make sure you thoroughly and completely remove any and all grease from the caliper or master cylinder body and bore when finished!

    HCP12230 Aftermarket brake system PISTON POPPER, for all model brake calipers, and all master cylinders except XJ750 Seca, XJ750 Euro, and XJ1100 rear.
    $ 13.95

    HCP21312 Aftermarket brake system PISTON POPPER, for all master cylinders on XJ750 Seca and XJ750 Euro models, and all XJ1100 rear master cylinders.
    $ 9.95


    HCP25425 Aftermarket rear master cylinder PISTON EXTRACTOR TOOL. If your piston is stuck in the cylinder bore, it’s an almost impossible task to remove it unless you have this tool. Used just like a standard “EZ-OUT” type device, this (and lots of penetrating oil beforehand!) will allow you to pull that piston out like a boss! For all XJ1100 and XS1100 models. NOTE: this tool is available for short term rental, please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at: http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630 and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
    $ 14.95

    HCP23117 Aftermarket front master cylinder PISTON EXTRACTOR TOOL. If your piston is stuck in the cylinder bore, it’s an almost impossible task to remove it unless you have this tool. Used just like a standard “EZ-OUT” type device, this (and lots of penetrating oil beforehand!) will allow you to pull that piston out like a boss! For all 1981-83 XJ750 Seca and all XJ750 Euro models. NOTE: this tool is available for short term rental, please see the “rental” section within the THE TOOLBOX section of our catalog at: http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-p-the-toolbox.44630 and review the availability and procedures in the TOOL RENTAL section.
    $ 14.95



    fh1) Aftermarket master cylinder PISTON BORE FLEX-HONE. If you want to rebuild your master cylinder correctly, like a professional would, then you'll need the correct tools-----and this is one of them.

    These flexible ball-tipped wire cylinder hones are especially made to give the master cylinder piston bore a gentle and proper hone pattern, removing minor surface imperfections and buildup that simply cannot be reached in any other way. Design allows full reach to end of piston bore for complete precision coverage. Super-fine 320-grit material provides the necessary toughness to properly refinish the bore. NOTE: the stranded wire "shaft" of these hones will fit into most drill chucks, but it is advised you perform the operation at a very slow speed, and for no more than 30-45 seconds. ALWAYS keep the hone wet with brake fluid while honing!


    HCP1743 Aftermarket master cylinder piston bore FLEX HONE, for use with all XJ550 North American (single disc brake) master cylinders, 1984-85 FJ600 rear master cylinder, 1992-98 XJ600 Seca II front or rear master cylinders, all XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim master cylinders, XJ900 models rear master cylinder, and XJ1100 front master cylinder. Each:
    $ 59.95

    HCP1744 Aftermarket master cylinder piston bore FLEX HONE, for use with all XJ550 European (dual disc brake) master cylinders, 1984-85 FJ600 front master cylinder, XJ650RJ Seca and XJ650 Turbo master cylinders, all XJ700 and XJ750-X models, all XJ750 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models, 1984 XJ750RL front and all XJ900 front master cylinders. Each:
    $ 59.95

    HCP1745 Aftermarket master cylinder piston bore FLEX HONE, for use on all XJ750 Seca, XJ750 Euro, all XS1100 (except 1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special) front master cylinders, and the 1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special rear master cylinder. Each:
    $ 59.95

    HCP1746 Aftermarket master cylinder piston bore FLEX HONE, for use on all XJ1100 rear master cylinders. Each:
    $ 59.95



    If you don't want to go to the expense of the proper flex-hone above, you should at least use the following stiff BRASS OR STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH to clean and polish the master cylinder bore.

    Stainless-steel Wire Bristle Brushes:

    HCP2762SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 12.5mm diameter, used for the master cylinder bore in XJ550 (North American models) master cylinders.
    $ 10.95

    HCP2912SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 14.5mm diameter, great for the master cylinder bore in XJ650 Maxim and XJ1100 rear master cylinders.
    $ 11.95

    HCP2764SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 15.8mm diameter, great for the fuel/air passage bore in the carb body, and the master cylinder bore in XJ550 Euro, XJ650 Euro, XJ650RJ Seca, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 front master cylinders.
    $ 12.95


    Brass Wire Bristle Brushes:

    HCP2762BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 12.5mm diameter, used for the master cylinder bore in XJ550 (North American models) master cylinders.
    $ 9.95

    HCP2912BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 14.5mm diameter, great for the master cylinder bore in XJ650 Maxim and XJ1100 rear master cylinders.
    $ 10.95

    HCP2764BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 15.8mm diameter, great for the fuel/air passage bore in the carb body, and the master cylinder bore in XJ550 Euro, XJ650 Euro, XJ650RJ Seca, XJ650 Turbo, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 front master cylinders.
    $ 11.95



    HCP15662 Aftermarket RADIAL DISC BRUSH KIT, contains a properly sized miniature abrasive "flap" brush that is both small enough and abrasive enough to remove glue remnants and rust that is common in the sight window seat flange area.............the flat area where your new glass sight window needs to seat and seal against! 3/32" shank fits into most standard drill chucks (or dremel tools that have a properly sized collet) and allows you to make quick work of the polishing of this area before the installation of your new sight window.
    $ 16.95



    Disc Brake Caliper Tools:

    bp21) Brake caliper or master cylinder PISTON POPPER. When brake caliper pistons or master cylinder plungers get seized up due to moisture in the brake fluid, they become next to impossible to remove......and no amount of air pressure is going to un-stick a fully frozen piston. For those situations, we have a simple solution: an easy-to-use, threaded brake "union bolt" with a standard grease-gun zerk fitting built in. Just replace the union bolt on your caliper with this bolt, hook up your hand-held grease gun, and a few minutes later that formerly stuck piston or plunger is in your hands! Even the smallest hand-held grease guns can generate over 3,000 psi, far more than the 150 psi you can hope to get out of an air compressor. Make sure you thoroughly and completely remove any and all grease from the caliper or master cylinder body and bore when finished!

    HCP12230 Aftermarket brake system PISTON POPPER, for all model brake calipers, and all master cylinders except XJ750 Seca, XJ750 Euro, and XJ1100 rear.
    $ 13.95

    HCP21312 Aftermarket brake system PISTON POPPER, for all master cylinders on XJ750 Seca and XJ750 Euro models, and all XJ1100 rear master cylinders.
    $ 9.95



    fh14) Aftermarket caliper bore CYLINDER BORE HONE. In order to refinish your brake caliper cylinder correctly, you'll need to restore the bore finish with a small-bore hone. Our adjustable, 3-shoe caliper hones adjust in size from 7/8" up to 2" in diameter and come complete with a set of 240-grit (medium) stones.

    Replacement shoe sets are available in both medium (240) and fine-grit (400) finishes. IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT YOU PURCHASE A SET OF 400-GRIT STONES WHEN YOU BUY THE HONE, so that you can make two passes on your caliper bore when rebuilding your caliper: first with the "clean-up" 240-grit stones, and then change the shoes to the "polishing" 400-grit stones for a truly professional job.

    NOTE: hones have a standard 1/4" round shank and can be operated manually or attached to a very low speed (less than 100 rpms) drill. ALWAYS KEEP THE HONE MOVING WITHIN THE BORE IF OPERATING WITH A DRILL, AND KEEP THE STONES FULLY LUBRICATED WHEN IN USE! (brake fluid is a great lubricant).

    HCP9955 Aftermarket 3-shoe brake CALIPER CYLINDER HONE, comes with a set of 240-grit stones. Works on all XJ-series front or rear brake calipers.
    $ 24.95

    HCP9957 Aftermarket replacement set of three brake caliper cylinder HONE SHOES, 240-grit. Includes a set of retaining cotter pins.
    $ 12.95

    HCP9958 Aftermarket replacement set of three brake caliper cylinder HONE SHOES, 400-grit. Includes a set of retaining cotter pins.
    $ 12.95



    fh211) These miniature radial wire-bristle brushes allows you to clean out and polish the dust seal and, especially, the fluid seal grooves in your caliper bodies using a standard dremel type of rotary tool. NOTE: please always wear safety glasses when using these brushes, as the brass wire bristles can (and do) come loose occasionally from the brush, and they'll always head straight for your eyeball when they do!

    HCP15536 Aftermarket RADIAL BRASS BRISTLE-WIRE BRUSH is a properly sized, miniature brass brush that is both small enough, gentle enough, yet abrasive enough to remove the rubber debris that builds up in the caliper fluid seal groove. Failure to remove such build up leaves an uneven surface for the new fluid seal to seat against......sure to cause either immediate or longer-term performance problems. 1/8" shank fits into most standard dremel tool collets and allows you to make quick work of the polishing of this area before the installation of your new rubber seals.
    $ 7.95

    HCP15924 Aftermarket RADIAL BRASS BRISTLE-WIRE BRUSH is a properly sized, miniature brass brush that is both small enough, gentle enough, yet abrasive enough to remove the rubber debris that builds up in the much thinner caliper dust seal groove. Failure to remove such build up leaves an uneven surface for the new fluid seal to seat against......sure to cause either immediate or longer-term performance problems. 1/8" shank fits into most standard dremel tool collets and allows you to make quick work of the polishing of this area before the installation of your new rubber seals. NOTE: not needed on XJ650 Maxim, XJ650 Midnight Maxim, 1979-81 XS1100 Special, XS1100 Midnight Special, or XJ1100 / XS1100 Midnight Special rear calipers (since the dust seal on these calipers fits external to the caliper bore).
    $ 7.95



    Brake System Chemicals:

    bst18) Aftermarket brake caliper and master cylinder ASSEMBLY GREASES, these "ultimate" greases are what professionals use when performing component re-assembly.

    Our HCP26785 or HCP24612 ultra-high temp (2800-F) melting point insures that grease will remain in place and not melt. Smear a ultra thin coating of this ultra-viscous grease on the caliper slider pins and the back of the caliper anti-rattle shims to insure a smooth, chatter-free system. Also high recommended for re-assembly of all master cylinder metal-to-metal contact components.

    The HCP24613 or HCP26786 red grease for rubber seals is a castor-lime based lubricant made specifically for hydraulic braking systems, and which allows for the free movement of the seals, ease of assembly, and will prevent water entry It’s safe for use with all natural and synthetic rubber materials, will not cause rubber to swell or dissolve as other types of grease can, and is both water- and solvent-resistant.

    The HCP24592 copper anti-seize is for use on mounting bolts and any threaded fasteners used in caliper or master cylinder mounting, brake lever pivot bolts, etc.


    HCP26785 Aftermarket tub of CERAMIC ULTRA-TEMP ASSEMBLY GREASE, This 4-gram tub is enough for two calipers (or more, if you're very frugal!) or a dozen master cylinders. NOTE: not for use on rubber parts or anything that touches a rubber part, nor anywhere inside the brake system where brake fluid contamination may occur. For the lubrication of internal or external brake system rubber parts, we recommend our HCP24613 or HCP26786 brake seal installation grease. Each:
    $ 7.95

    HCP24612 Aftermarket tub of CERAMIC ULTRA-TEMP ASSEMBLY GREASE. This 1/4-ounce tub will do many a brake job! Use on metal-to-metal contact points, including slider pins, fasteners, etc. Can also be used on the back of the brake pads/shims as a basic “anti-squeak” lubricant. NOTE: not for use on rubber fluid seals, piston cups, etc. For internal parts, use the HCP24613 or HCP26786 brake seal installation grease. Each:
    $ 9.95


    HCP26786 Aftermarket tub of RED RUBBER BRAKE ASSEMBLY GREASE. This 4-gram tub is enough for two calipers (or more, if you're very frugal!) or a half-dozen master cylinders. Specially designed for use on rubber seals and any metal parts that move thru or with rubber parts. Each:
    $ 7.95

    HCP24613 Aftermarket tub of RED RUBBER BRAKE ASSEMBLY GREASE. This 1/4-ounce tub will do many a brake job! Specially designed for use on rubber seals and any metal parts that move thru or with rubber parts. Each:
    $ 9.95


    HCP24592 Aftermarket tub of COPPER ANTI-SEIZE PASTE. This 1/8-ounce tub will do many a brake job! For use on mounting bolts, threaded fasteners, etc. Each:
    $ 7.95


    HCP24599KIT Aftermarket caliper and master cylinder BRAKE ASSEMBLY GREASES SET, contains more than enough for a full brake system rebuild: 1/8 ounce tub of red rubber grease for the rubber seals and pistons, and 1/8 ounce tub of copper grease for threaded fasteners, and a 1/8 ounce tube of ceramic high-temp grease for the slider pins, etc. A lifetime supply for your motorcycle!
    $ 17.95


    NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.

    HCP24600KIT Aftermarket caliper and master cylinder BRAKE ASSEMBLY GREASES SET, contains everything in the HCP24599KIT above, along with a tube of the HCP9785 brake pad anti-squeal fluid.
    $ 21.95



    HCP20863 Aftermarket super-duty GRAPHITE LUBE, in a generous 10-ounce aerosol can. The 800-pound gorilla of lubricants, it's infused with pure graphite, goes on wet, and then dries in 10 minutes to a super-slick, high-pressure, bearing-like finish which provides the ultimate level of protection. Prevents rust, won't wash off, throw off, and won't attract dust or dirt. Surfaces must be clean and dry of previous oils, etc. before application. Can be used as an engine assembly lube, bearing or bushing pre-lube, great for lock cylinders, and all metallic sliding surfaces. Use where dusty or dirty conditions render oil-based lubricants ineffective or undesirable.
    $ 42.95



    bst2) Aftermarket disc brake pad DAMPENING FLUID, specially formulated fluid can be smeared onto the back of disc brake pads or shims, and helps to reduce or prevent the high-frequency vibrations that can cause brake "squeal". Comes in a 4-ounce squeeze tube.

    NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.

    HCP9785 Aftermarket disc brake pad DAMPENING FLUID.
    $ 11.95



    Super-Penetrant Fluids and Lubricants:

    Sometimes, the toughest part of working on a vehicle is battling the effects of time: seized fasteners, caused by rust, corrosion, and other factors, turns what should be a 5-minute effort into a 50-minute (or more) chore, complete with rounded-off, ruined, or snapped fasteners, e-z outs, heli-coil inserts, and more.........and that's just not right.

    While the proper use of our various Anti-Seize products will prevent these nightmares from occurring in the future, you're stuck in the here-and-now, and the best way to handle these obstacles is to have the proper tools at the stand-by; and in the case of fastener seizure, the proper "tool" is a can or two of our SUPER PENETRATING LUBRICANTS at the ready; a couple of squirts, a little bit of time-----perhaps some heat for those really nasty situations----and you're on your way again, hopefully not too much worse for the experience.....

    Great for use on all fasteners, fork tube cap bolts, intake and exhaust manifolds bolts, studs, and nuts, lock cylinder tumblers, or anywhere an un-cooperative fastener can be found. Can even be used to help un-seize frozen engines!

    Be aware that these products are not your typical, garden-variety, run-of-the-mill "retail" type products; these are designed an used as industrial- and military-strength products, meaning they have special formulations that include a dollop more of the "good stuff" within them to solve the toughest seizure problems imaginable (the "good stuff" ingredients cost more, and it is those compounds that are left out of or reduced in concentration in "retail" level consumer products).

    NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.


    HCP10331 Aftermarket standard-duty PENETRATING LUBRICANT, in a generous 16-ounce aerosol can. Oil-based lubricant penetrates down into spaces of one-millionth of an inch to handle the most reluctant seizures. Actually dissolves the rust and corrosion that causes the seizure; lubricates and displaces moisture to prevent rust re-formation. This product is what we use and recommend for freeing stuck fork tube cap bolts and other such challenging fasteners.
    $ 44.95

    HCP11974 Aftermarket super-duty PENETRATING LUBRICANT, in a generous 13-ounce aerosol can. Same as our standard-duty formula above, but also includes graphite to not only enhance and speed up the penetrant action, but also gets down into the pores of the metal for the greatest possible lubrication possible. The cat's-meow of penetrating fluids, can even be used to un-seize frozen engines or as an engine assembly lube! This fluid is also a great choice for use as a drive cable lubricant.
    $ 46.95

    HCP10333 Aftermarket extreme-duty PENETRATING LUBRICANT, in a generous 16-ounce aerosol can. Same as our standard-duty formula above, but also includes liquid silicone to enhance and speed up the penetrant action. This product is also an exceptional choice for use as a control-cable lubricant.
    $ 47.95



    Brake System Fluid:

    Which type should you use? Good question! Here's a bit of an answer:

    http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/brake_fluid.html

    NOTE: Yamaha specifies the use of DOT #3 brake fluid for all XJ models, but of course, that recommendation was made almost 25 years ago.........

    NOTE: the following product(s) can only be shipped via ground transport (which thus eliminates the postal Priority Mail, postal Express Mail, or private carrier Expedited levels of service for this item) and cannot (and will not----don't even ask!) be shipped outside of the continental USA. Additionally, there may be a per-package weight or quantity restriction, and thus multiple-unit orders of this product may have to be shipped in separate packages and will incur additional shipping charges.



    HCP11490 Aftermarket DOT3/4 BRAKE FLUID, premium quality, ultra-refined glycol-based 500-F boiling point fluid, in a 12-ounce bottle.
    $ 11.95

    HCP1257 Aftermarket DOT5 BRAKE FLUID, premium quality silicone-based 550-F boiling point fluid, in an easy-pour 8 ounce, long-neck bottle.
    $ discontinued

    HCP1254 Aftermarket DOT5 BRAKE FLUID, premium quality glycol-based 580-F boiling point fluid, in an easy-pour 8 ounce, long-neck bottle.
    $ 19.95



    HINT: there's a puddle of fluid under your wheel, in the area of the brake caliper. Unless the source of the leak is fully obvious, how can you tell if it's brake fluid of fork oil? Try to mix a few drops of water into the fluid; fork oil (or engine/gear oil) won't mix and the water will "ball up"; brake fluid will integrate with water and absorb the water.



    Brake System Fluid Bleeders:

    bp11) Aftermarket BRAKE BLEEDER KITS. By eliminating the need to constantly pump-and-release the hand lever, and loosen and tighten the bleeder screw, you'll save yourself an incredible amount of time, effort, and swearing with these kits.

    The master cylinders on these bikes push a very small amount of fluid with each hand stroke, and thus bleeding a system is a long, time-consuming chore----but, on the positive side, it's a really great way to build up a really strong, firm, manly handshake and grip. But there's other ways and times to accomplish that, so when all you want to do is bleed your brakes, then there's nothing better than these labor-saving tools.


    NOTE: hand-bleeding a dry system...such as when you change brake lines, or have rebuilt the master cylinder or calipers....is next to impossible to do without the use of a Mity-Vac vacuum system. It will take you hours to do by hand. And here’s why:

    https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/thre...o-your-yamaha-today.4769/page-416#post-682247

    With a Mity Vac, you'll do it in about 10 minutes, tops.


    The one-way valve kit is recommended for bleeding already full systems during annual fluid changes, etc.


    Hints:

    a) Make sure you don't run out of fluid in the reservoir when using these tools!

    b) Make sure that your caliper bleeder screws are clean and pass fluid freely (and continue to do so once the system is evacuated) as old debris in your brake system settles down to the lowest point in the system (the caliper reservoir) and gets sucked into the bleeder screw during bleeding, this clogging the system and making it impossible to bleed.

    c) Finally, here's one neat trick to get a truly professional, world-class level of brake bleeding accomplished: after you "finish" your final bleeding cycle, turn the forks so that the caliper you are bleeding is on the high side. Now do one final bleeding to rid the system of the last few tiny bubbles that tend to hide in the top of the caliper when the front wheel is straight ahead. The reason for this is: if you look at where the bleeder screw is on the caliper body, it is placed just slightly below the very top arc of the piston bore in the caliper. Turning the front wheel gets the internal bleeder screw port above this arc, and allows you to get all that pesky air out of your system!

    And here are some other great tips for making this job easier:

    https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/thre...o-your-yamaha-today.4769/page-416#post-682247

    http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bleeding-front-brake-help-moved-from-dyi.111186

    http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/brake-bleeding-2-days-in-no-results.27670

    http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bleeding-front-brake-fyi.110663

    http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/another-xj750-seca-brake-bleed.103363

    http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/86-xj700-brake-bleed-issue-resolved.118163

    http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/86-xj700s-brake-bleed.118135

    http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bleeding-brakes.117886

    http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/this-brake-is-refusing-to-bleed.117322

    http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/bleeding-xj750-seca-brakes.115517


    HCP5908 MITY-VAC vacuum assisted brake bleeder system. This complete kit contains the patented Mity-Vac vacuum-assisted brake bleeder vacuum pump, a fluid cup with bleed and storage lids, and an assortment of clear hose lengths, adapters, and instruction manual.
    $ 69.95

    HCP8546 Aftermarket ONE-WAY VALVE BLEEDER HOSE KIT. The principle behind this simple device is just like the Speed Bleeder screws listed previously: a pressure-controlled one-way valve allows fluid out, but snaps shut to prevent air from rushing back in....thus allowing one person to easily bleed their brake system. Just release your standard brake caliper bleeder screw, install the clear tube over the fluid port, and begin pumping the lever. Nowhere near as quick and easy as the Mity-Vac listed above, but a very useful alternative to the muscle cramps you'll get trying to bleed your system using the old-fashioned (two-person) method. Instructions included. NOT RECOMMENDED FOR USE ON EMPTY (DRY) SYSTEMS!
    $ 24.95



    Brake System General Tools and Supplies:

    ft2) Aftermarket twisted-stem WIRE BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSHES. If you choose to re-use your union bolts rather than replace them, we strongly suggest that you clean them internally.....they collect quite a bit of sludge, rust, and varnish internally, and you don't want that material getting into your brake system after your system rebuild or re-bleeding efforts. Available in either 18-8 stainless steel or brass, these brushes not only help make the job of cleaning parts so much easier, but also insure that threaded passages are clean, clean, clean and less likely to strip or deform when fasteners are inserted once again. All brushes have a "finger-loop" in the end to make twisting action easier. Stainless brushes will last longer and can clean more aggressively, so be gentle when using them on aluminum carb bodies and bowls. Brass brushes are gentle on soft metals like carb bodies, but require more effort to produce a cleaner surface and wear out more quickly.


    HCP1406SS Aftermarket STAINLESS STEEL WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSH, 4.5mm diameter, the right size for the brake hose union bolts.
    $ 5.95

    HCP1406BR Aftermarket BRASS WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 4.5mm diameter, the right size for the brake hose union bolts.
    $ 4.95



    cps2) Aftermarket high-quality WET-OR-DRY FINISHING SHEETS. Since these don't contain "sand", we really can't call them "sandpaper", but you get the idea. A large assortment of ultra-fine finishing paper is just the trick to polish the vacuum pistons and piston bores in your carbs, or master cylinder and brake caliper bores, ridding them of any surface oxidation and minor imperfections that will create interference or friction and prevent the pistons from moving freely---causing all sorts of high-idle (and other problems) in your carbs, or dragging brakes in your calipers. Our recommendation is to start with the 400- or 600-grit paper and move up 200 grit at a time until you get the bores micro-polished to an incredible smooth finish. One 9.5" x 11" sheet of each size will be enough to do four carbs or one pair of calipers; use two sheets of the 5-1/2" x 11" super-fine grit paper.

    Of course, this premium finishing paper is just the thing you'll need for prepping any painted surface for painting, too.

    HCP8594 Aftermarket premium grade 400-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Each:
    $ 3.50

    HCP8594SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 400-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
    $ 24.95


    HCP8596 Aftermarket premium grade 600-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Each:
    $ 3.50

    HCP8596SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 600-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
    $ 24.95


    HCP8597 Aftermarket premium grade 800-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Each:
    $ 3.50

    HCP8597SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 800-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 9.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
    $ 24.95


    HCP8598 Aftermarket premium grade 1000-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Each:
    $ 2.95

    HCP8598SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 1000-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
    $ 24.95


    HCP8599 Aftermarket premium grade 1200-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Each:
    $ 2.95

    HCP8599SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 1200-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
    $ 24.95


    HCP8600 Aftermarket premium grade 1500-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Each:
    $ 2.95

    HCP8600SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 1500-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
    $ 24.95


    HCP8601 Aftermarket premium grade 2000-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Each:
    $ 2.95

    HCP8601SET10 Aftermarket premium grade 2000-grit FINISHING PAPER, single sheet, 5.5" x 11". Set of 10 sheets:
    $ 24.95



    HCPSANDSET1 Your choice, mix-and-match, any 5 full-size sheets of 400-800 grit paper grades listed above.
    $ 16.95

    HCPSANDSET2 Your choice, mix-and-match, any 5 half-size sheets of 1000-2000 grit paper grades listed above.
    $ 13.95




    BRAKE SYSTEM PAINTS:

    Refinishing your brake system parts with these high-quality, heat-resistant paints will make them look like new! All of the following paints do not require primers (although it never hurts to use our high-heat primer), and are heat-resistant to over 500-F. Note that these types of paint require multiple heat/cool cycles to fully cure, and as such, are not recommend for use on items which do not normally get above 200-F (although you can duplicate the heat-cycle process by heating the painted parts in an oven, etc.).


    Should I sand between each application of primer?:

    Yes. Your primer, especially the primer-fillers, have to be baby-butt smooth and result in the elimination of any minor surface imperfections, low spots, or high spots before you start applying the color paints.....the application of the color paints and then the clear coats should be a "spray it and let-it-dry" type of procedure. The color paints and clear coats are NOT the time to "fix" surface problems or flaws!. That is what the "surface preparation" (the "bodywork") and the primer stages of the painting process are all about!

    Remember this: a "really great paint job" is really a great bodywork and pre-painting job.....


    Should I sand after the final application of primer, before I start applying the color coat?:

    You had better! And everything had better be absolutely perfect, because this is the last chance you have to "get it right" without having to do a lot of extra effort in the future, up to and including going stripping everything off if necessary and going back to bare metal!

    If you've gotten any bits of dust, flying insects, or other objects embedded within the primer during this stage of the process, then you'll need to let the primer fully dry and then wet-sand with very fine (1600-grit or finer) finishing paper to remove the flaws, and then re-coat with more coats of primer and sand until things are perfect.

    HINT: the absolute zestfully-cleanliness of the parts to be painted and of the work environment----no airborne dust, or flying insects, etc.----is the key to achieving a professional paint job. Now you know why they use filtered air in "spray booths" when painting...........


    Are high-heat paints brake fluid resistant?:

    Generally, no (unless you are using DOT5 silicone fluid). The high heat paints, properly applied and then cured, will offer a slight resistance to brief exposure to brake fluid (i.e. you spill a bit and then immediately wipe it off), but just like most other paints, it will dissolve in reaction to most brake fluids.



    High-Heat Primers:

    Special Notes on High-Heat Primers:

    The HCP11060 high-heat primer is compatible and can be used with on the following paints:

    HCP25829 high-heat gloss black paint.
    HCP25830 high-heat satin black paint.
    HCP11061 high-heat bright silver metallic paint.
    HCP11062 high-heat sold grey-silver paint.
    HCP25834 high-heat gold paint.


    HCP11060 Aftermarket grey standard HIGH-HEAT PRIMER is the right product to use for all applications except the exhaust system. Rated for up to 550-F temperatures, which is well below the temperatures of engine cases, cylinder jugs, valve covers, brake rotors, calipers, etc. The exhaust port side of a cylinder head could, under rare circumstances, exceed this temperature. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each:
    $ 13.95

    HCP11060SET2 Aftermarket exhaust system HIGH-HEAT PRIMER, grey. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
    $ 25.95

    HCP11060SET4 Aftermarket exhaust system HIGH-HEAT PRIMER, grey. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
    $ 37.95



    High-Heat Blacks:

    HCP25829 Aftermarket engine or brake system HIGH HEAT PAINT features a high-gloss black finish. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 250-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
    $ 14.95

    HCP25829SET2 Aftermarket engine HIGH HEAT PAINT features a high-gloss black finish. Set of 2 cans:
    $ 27.95

    HCP25829SET4 Aftermarket engine HIGH HEAT PAINT features a high-gloss black finish. Set of 4 cans:
    $ 52.95



    HCP25830 Aftermarket engine or brake system HIGH-HEAT PAINT features a satin black finish. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 250-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
    $ 17.95

    HCP25830SET2 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, flat-black. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
    $ 32.95

    HCP25830SET4 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, flat-black. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
    $ 59.95



    High-Heat Silvers:

    We've found that the grey-silver color is also very close to the original color used on the final drive housings, as well as on the brake calipers on XJ700 and XJ750-X models.


    HCP11062 Aftermarket engine or brake system HIGH-HEAT PAINT features a Solid Grey Silver finish that is very close to the original, differing only in the brightness of the silver content (more silver than original and not as much grey) and does not have any metallic. However, it does give a very nice, bright finish that looks good. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 250-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
    $ 14.95

    HCP11062SET2 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, silver-grey. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
    $ 27.95

    HCP11062SET4 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, silver-grey. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
    $ 52.95



    HCP11061 Aftermarket engine or brake system HIGH-HEAT PAINT features a Blinding Bright Silver Metallic finish that has too much "silver" and has a very heavy metallic content as compared to the original. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 250-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
    $ 14.95

    HCP11061SET2 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, bright silver metallic. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
    $ 27.95

    HCP11061SET4 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, bright silver metallic. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
    $ 54.95



    High-Heat Gold:

    HCP25834 Aftermarket engine or brake system HIGH-HEAT PAINT features a bright gold finish. Requires no special surface preparation (besides absolute cleanliness!) and will become fuel and oil resistant once fully cured, which requires a minimum of 250-F at 30 minutes. Multiple heating-cool down cycles are recommended for the most durable finish. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Each can:
    $ 17.95

    HCP25834SET2 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, gold. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 2 cans:
    $ 32.95

    HCP25834SET4 Aftermarket engine HIGH-HEAT PAINT, gold. Each aerosol can contains 11 ounces. Set of 4 cans:
    $ 59.95
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2024
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