The following are pictures of the process ofr changing fork seals on an 85 XJ700 N. This is a parts frame so no new parts were used. The intention was to simply show the process I used with lots of pictures since I'm a visual learner. I'm sure some of the pictures are unnecessary but more never hurts. The pictures you see are of my XJ700n parts bike and since this is just a demonstration the old parts, etc. were used so that’s why they look old and dirty. The numbers refer to the pictures. Put the bike on the center stand and place a support under the engine so the front wheel can be removed. Disconnect the speedometer cable. Remove the brake calipers and use some wire to hang them from the bike so that they are not hanging by the brake lines. 1. Loosen the pinch nut and remove the front axle and remove the wheel. MODERATOR EDIT: Checking to see if we can insert new links for old photos. The above image is a placeholder. 2. Be careful not to lose the spacer in the hub. 3. Store the spacer and axle in wheel 4. Pry off the cover for the top cap. Yours will probably have a metal covering over the rubber. 5. The hex cap bolt 6. Use the proper hex wrench or hex socket to loosen, but not remove, the cap bolt before removing the forks 7. Remove the cross brace 8. Remove the plastic caps on the lower pinch bolts 9. Lower pinch bolts exposed 10. Use proper hex wrench or hex socket to loosen, but not remove, the pinch bolts. 11. Loosen, but not remove, the upper pinch bolt and slide the fork tube out. If the tubes have any surface rust now is a good time to clean that up to help prevent any damage to the oil and dust seals. 12. Using the proper hex wrench or socket remove the cap bolt. Although not shown here, I keep downward pressure on the cap bolt and turn the tube to avoid damaging the fine threading in the tube. 13. Remove the spacer 14. Remove the spring washer 15. Note the washer flange that goes into the spring 16. Remove the spring. Now is a good time to pour out the old oil. 17. Use a small screwdriver that gently go around the dust seal to pry it loose. 18. Remove the dust seal. If the metal cap comes off the dust seal it can be cleaned and re-glued if you intend to reuse the dust seal. 19. Locate one of the ends of the snap ring 20. Starting at one end with a small screwdriver lift the snap ring out 21. If your snap ring is rusty like this one you probably should replace it. 22. You will need a 22m hex socket or an inverted spark plug socket and several extensions to secure the cylinder comp in order to remove the cylinder securing bolt. 23. I bought this hex socket because my spark plug socket has a rubber insert for the spark plug and I didn’t want to remove it. 24. The cylinder securing bolt you are trying to remove 25. Insert the 22mm hex into the tube with your extensions and a ratchet, and use the proper hex wrench and ratchet on the cylinder securing bolt and remove it. It probably isn’t very tight. 26. The cylinder securing bolt removed. 27. be careful not to lose the washer on the cylinder securing bolt. 28. Tilt the tube and the cylinder comp will slide out. I’m not sure what this is actually called but everywhere I looked it was referred to as the cylinder comp. 29. Pick up the fork and slide the inner tube in and out and it will gently pull out the oil seal and bushings. 30. Tilt the lower fork housing and the taper spindle should drop out. 31. This shows the relationship of the cylinder comp and the taper spindle when installed. However, note that the taper spindle is inserted into the bottom of the inner tube rather than directly onto the cylinder comp. Now, clean everything and inspect and replace any damaged parts and reassemble. I found spray brake cleaner to do a great job. Buy two cans. Coat everything except the dust seal with a light coat of fork oil. 32. Insert the taper spindle in the bottom of the inner tube. 33. Taper spindle fully installed. 34. Insert the cylinder comp. Use your hex and extension to push it through the bottom of the inner tube and the taper spindle. 35. If the taper spindle comes out put it back on the cylinder comp. 36. Correctly installed taper spindle 37. Insert the inner tube with the cylinder comp and taper spindle installed into the lower fork housing. I used the hex socket and extensions to hold the cylinder comp in place and slowly pushed it all in to avoid have the taper spindle coming loose. Ignore the seal in the picture, it will be installed later. 38. Insert the cylinder securing bolt and get it started by hand while using the hex socket and extensions to keep the cylinder comp in place. 39. Once the cylinder securing bolt is started several turns by hand, use the appropriate hex wrench or hex socket to tighten it. 40. Install the metal slide and washer. I coated the slide with some fork oil to help it seat. Be sure the washer is on before trying to seat the slide. 41. My home made seal driver, a 1 ¼ pvc coupler and a section of 1 ½ schedule 40 pvc pipe 42. Place the coupler on first and gently tap it with the pipe until it fully seats. 43. A lousy picture of the fully seated slide and washer. 44. Put fork oil on the new oil seal and use something like a thin plastic bag to protect it from any rust or imperfections on the tube and slide it on the tube. Once the seal is far enough down the tube remove the plastic, being sure to get it all out, and lower the seal. 45. The oil seal in place before seating. Put fork oil around the edges. 46. Use your handy-dandy seal driver to gently seat the seal. 47. Fully seated seal. Note that you should be able to clearly see the groove for the snap ring. 48. Install the snap ring making sure it seats in the groove. 49. Slide the dust seal and cover onto the inner tube. 50. Seat the dust seal and cover. Position the seal so that the drain slot in the metal cover is to the rear. 51. Fully seated dust seal and cover. 52. Insert the spring. The tighter section of the spring goes up. 53. Insert the spring washer, flange down. Push the inner tube down to make it easier to install the washer 54. Pull the inner tube up so that the spring and washer recede 55. Install the spacer Now would be a good time to put in the proper amount of fork oil. Be sure to keep the inner tube pulled up or it will overflow. 56. Using the proper hex wrench or hex socket install the cap bolt. I use slight downward pressure on the wrench and turn the tube so as not to damage the threads inside the tube. Re-install the forks and once the pinch bolts are tightened finish tightening the cap bolts. When re-installing the front wheel be sure to be sure that the retaining notch and tab match up as in pictures 57 and 58.